After Monemvasia we head west toward The Mani, where fuedal towers, cactus and a barren landscape dominate as far as the horizon. Gytheio is the capital of this region, a bustling old town with a harbour and a deterioration that was evident this time around.

The most immediate thing that strikes you about the Peleponnese is how rapidly the scenery changes. At any given time you can feel like you're in a northern European country, in the Middle East or other horizons far from Greece. The landscape is not what is 'The Greece' most know from postcards and pretty pics of this country. Greece has a rich and varied landscape that has surprises around every corner. Greece isn't just the islands or the ancient sites, but a kaleidescope of beauty - colourful and inspiring, desolate or black. It has dimensions and sensibilities that heighten the senses and make you hungry to discover and experience more. The saying 'It's the journey, not the destination' is particularly true in regard to travelling around Greece. It's worthwhile to take your time and travel far to get to where you're going so that you can breathe in all the wonder this country has to offer.